The MR33 Tweak Tool Station allows perfect balancing of all 1/10th and 1/12th scale onroad vehicles. The Tweak Tool Station from MR33 does not rely on the bubble level of a spirit level (like most other products on the market), the balance of the chassis is checked with a height gauge (not included/#MR33-RHG) on the left and right of the swinging part of the Tweak Tool Station. You can therefore work with clearly readable values and can adjust your vehicle very quickly and yet thoroughly.

The MR33 Tweak Tool Station is milled from high-quality aluminium, black anodized and provided with laser-engraved logos and scales!

Important: It must always be ensured that the Tweak Tool Station is used on a flat and straight setup board and a straight table. Only then will you get the best results and a tweak-free car!

What is "tweak" in RC car racing?

Tweak refers to a distortion or twist in the chassis of an RC car that causes the force distribution between the left and right sides to be different. This means:

? The car reacts asymmetrically to steering movements, throttle or braking - e.g. it pulls more to the left or right, jumps unevenly over bumps or breaks out uncontrollably.

Tweak is particularly critical in on-road touring cars (e.g. 1:10 electric touring cars), where maximum symmetry and balance are crucial.

Causes of tweak

• Unevenly tightened dampers or bulkhead bolts

• Crashes / hard impacts (chassis bent or distorted)

• Twisted shock towers or control arms

• Uneven weight distribution

How do you adjust "Tweak" perfectly?

This is where the so-called tweak test comes into play. This is how it works (classic method for 1:10 touring cars):

What you need

✅ Level table or setup board
✅ Tweak bar / screwdriver (or ruler)
✅ Setup system or clean tires

Step-by-step instructions

1️⃣ Prepare the vehicle

• Mount tires

• Vehicle fully assembled and ready to ride incl. battery (with all screws tight)

2️⃣ Place the vehicle on a level table

• All four tires on the table

• Car free and unloaded (no hand on it)

3️⃣ Fix the front axle

• Lift the front axle (e.g. with a ruler or tweak bar) slightly and evenly from both sides

• Observe whether both rear wheels lift off at the same time

4️⃣ Check the rear axle

• Same method on the rear axle: apply bar, lift evenly → Check whether both front wheels lift at the same time

5️⃣ Interpret the result

✅ If both sides lift off at the same time → No tweak
❌ If one side lifts off earlier → Tweak present

6️⃣ Correct tweak

• Slightly loosendamper screws (top/bottom) → Chassis "relaxes"

• Push the vehicle down slightly → Chassis settles symmetrically

• Tighten the dampers evenly again

• Repeat tweak test → Continue until both sides are synchronized

Modern alternative (high-end)

Electronic setup scales (e.g. from SkyRC, Hudy) measure the wheel load distribution exactly in grams. This allows you to perfectly balance the chassis - particularly popular in competition.

Why is "no tweak" so important?

✔️ Consistent cornering
✔ ️ Constant left/right traction
✔ ️ Better control under full throttle and braking
✔ ️ Less tire wear
✔ ️ Predictable setup for all track conditions

Tip for practice

? Check tweak after every crash or damper change
? Note the values in the setup sheet - this way you will notice immediately if something changes