RC MAKER GeoCarbon HD Weighted Tweak Wheel Set Pro 1:10 Onroad

RC MAKER product description

Introducing our latest development. Blackened, innovative and practical! Weighted Tweak Wheel Set Pro for touring cars!

Featuring a sleeker, updated design that also increases the ease of use, durability and accuracy of the tweak wheels! 

• Longer thumb nuts for easier mounting  
• New beveled nuts tighten to the hex without washers
• Smaller range of movement after lifting the wheel, for faster reset
• One-piece weight/bulkhead construction for increased rigidity and durability
• High quality two-tone base for easy transportation
• Our signature GeoCarbon design 
• Elegant, beveled, black coated and laser engraved brass

No more getting down on your knees in the box to see which wheel lifts first. With our weighted tweak wheels, you can easily see which wheel lifts first! The offset weights cause the tweak wheels to rotate as soon as the wheel that lifts first comes off the ground. This allows you to easily determine which tweak adjustment needs to be made to lighten the car.

The set of weighted tweak wheels features ABEC 7 bearings, black 7075 knurled knurled nuts and a black coated and laser engraved front wall/weight!

The nuts are permanently installed in the bearings, which in turn are permanently installed in the brass bulkhead. As a complete assembly, you'll never lose anything as each wheel, nut and bearing are permanently attached to each other. 

Rounding out the set is a two-tone 3D Pro Tweak Wheel Stand to keep the wheels together on your pit bench and in your pit bag!

The wheels fit both EP and GP 1/10 touring cars with a standard 4mm axle.

Features:

• Lightweight and easy to transport, install and remove
• Guarantees incredible accuracy
• No need to change your body position to see which wheel lifts first, you can observe this from the normal sitting position in the box
• No need to swap front and rear wheels, both pairs are the same and can be used at either end.
• Perfectly fitting stand to keep the wheels together and organized on your box bench
• Blackened front wall with laser engraved RCM logo, black 7075 aluminum knurled nuts, ABEC 7 high tolerance bearings with a 3K carbon fiber mount
• All components are CNC machined and assembled to a very high tolerance

Guide to successfully de-tweaking your chassis

• It is very important that your chassis is flat and the droop is set before performing this process!
• Turn the wheels on the opposite side of the vehicle to be tested so that the flat base is in contact with the setup board.
• Make sure the weighted wheels on the end you are working on are parallel to the ground and the logo is horizontal.
• Push down on both ends of the vehicle to stabilize the suspension, then slowly raise the "spinning" end until one of the wheels begins to rotate; note which wheel that was.
• The wheel that came off first is the side where the collar needs to be unscrewed towards the top of the shock body at the other end of the vehicle. Adjust the wheel by half a turn and also turn it half a turn in the opposite direction on the other side. For example, if the left front side lifts off too early, unscrew the rear left cuff half a turn and tighten the rear right cuff half a turn.
• Repeat this process until both wheels turn almost simultaneously. 
• To do the other end, simply turn the car 180 degrees, turn the wheels that were tight back to spinning, and the previously spinning ones back to tight, and repeat the above steps!

What is "tweak" in RC car racing?

Tweak refers to a distortion or twist in the chassis of an RC car that causes the force distribution between the left and right sides  to bedifferent . This means:

? The car reactsasymmetrically  to steering movements, throttle or brakes - e.g. it pulls more to the left or right, jumps unevenly over bumps or breaks out uncontrollably.

Tweak is particularly critical in on-road touring cars (e.g. 1:10 Electric Touring Cars), where maximum symmetry and balance are crucial.

Causes for tweak

• Unevenly tightened dampers or bulkhead bolts

• Crashes / hard impacts (chassis bent or distorted)

• Twisted shock towers or control arms

• Uneven weight distribution

How do you set the "tweak" perfectly?

This is where the so-called  tweak test comes into play. This is how it works (classic method for 1:10 touring cars):

What you need

✅ Level table or setup board
✅ Tweak bar / screwdriver (or ruler)
✅ Setup system or clean tires

Step-by-step instructions

1️⃣ Prepare the vehicle

• Mount tires

• Vehicle fully assembled and ready to ride incl. battery (with all screws tight)

2️⃣ Place the vehicle on a level table

• All four tires on the table

• Car free and unloaded (no hand on it)

3️⃣ Fix the front axle

• Lift the front axle (e.g. with a ruler or tweak bar) evenly slightly from both sides

• Observe whether both rear wheels  lift offat the same time 

4️⃣ Check the rear axle

• Same method on the rear axle: apply bar, lift evenly → Check whether both front wheels lift at the same time

5️⃣ Interpret the result

✅ If both sides lift off at the same time → No tweak
❌ If one side lifts off earlier → Tweak present

6️⃣ Correct tweak

• Slightly loosendamper screws (top/bottom) → Suspension "relaxes"

• Push the vehicledown slightly   → Chassis settles symmetrically

• Tighten the dampers again evenly

• Repeat tweak test → Until both sides are synchronized

Modern alternative (high-end)

Electronic setup scales (e.g. from SkyRC, Hudy) measure the wheel load distribution exactly in grams. This allows you to perfectly balance the chassis - particularly popular in competition.

Why is "no tweak" so important?

✔️ Consistent cornering behavior
✔ ️ Constant left/right traction
✔ ️  Bettercontrol under full throttle and braking
✔ ️ Less tire wear
✔ ️ Predictable setup for all track conditions

Tip for practice

? Check the tweakafter every crash or damper change
? Note the values in the setup sheet - this way you will notice immediately if something changes